In this article, we’ll explore quarter-round trim and shoe molding. Total time for a project using these is 1 hr with a yield of 60 linear feet. Skill level is intermediate and estimated cost is $50 to $100. Shoe molding or base shoe molding is a decorative finishing touch for baseboards. It’s a small, thin strip of molding painted to match the baseboard trim and fits into the right angle or gap between floor and wall’s baseboard.
It’s similar to quarter-round baseboard trim but not as rounded. Without baseboard or shoe molding, the gap between wall and floor could look unsightly and cause energy-wasting drafts. These moldings are inexpensive and easy to install. Installation is easier with an electric brad nailer which sets or recesses small finish nails for shoe molding or quarter-round trim and speeds up work. Quarter-round molding appears to be one-quarter of a full circle with both flat faces same width when viewed from the end. Length it protrudes from wall is same as its height. Another way to think of it is imagining a round dowel cut into four pie pieces. Shoe molding is not as rounded as quarter-round. Its reduced protrusion gives more flooring room and a more finished look. Carpenters like to use these bottom trim pieces as they reduce need for complicated baseboard scribe cuts. Professionals prefer to attach shoe molding with nail gun rather than glue. Nailing ensures snug fit and allows access underneath trim if needed. Molding can be made from wood, MDF, and synthetics like foam, plastic, and rubber. Wood is most commonly used and can be most expensive depending on type. Depending on material, they are stored as long, rigid strips or flexible spools. Materials like wood, MDF, and polystyrene are rigid and sold in long, thin, plank-like strips. Shoe molding and quarter-round trim moldings start as long round dowels then rip-cut and milled into respective shapes. Need more help? Talk to a contractor near you. Our partners can help you compare quotes from top-rated professionals near you. Get a Quote. Advertiser Disclosure: The offers that appear in this table are from partnerships from which The Spruce receives compensation.They are stocked in long lengths and racked vertically at the home improvement store or lumber center. This extra-long length works well, as full-length pieces can be used to cover most walls.
Wood: Pine is a common softwood for trim. It can be clear-coated, stained, or painted, giving a warm rustic look. It’s the least expensive wood species, averaging about $1.50 per linear foot. Oak is the most common hardwood used. It has a distinctive grain and can be clear-coated, painted, or stained for a deeper, richer wood tone. It costs about $3 to $5 per linear square foot. Maple, cherry, and mahogany are the most expensive wood species for baseboard molding, averaging $5 to $10 per linear foot. MDF (medium-density fiberboard) is a composite material made from wood by-products. It often comes pre-primed, ready for installation and painting if necessary. It is inexpensive, about $1 per linear foot. Polystyrene is the lightest and least dense material, made of styrene polymers or ‘Styrofoam’. It is the cheapest material but doesn’t hold up like other materials. It is also inexpensive, about $1.50 per linear foot. Flexible Spools: Materials like rubber and synthetic polymers (polyurethane and PVC) are considered ‘flexible trim’. These shoe and quarter-round moldings are thin and flexible, designed to bend and conform to the floor’s profile. They can be purchased in spools or coiled for easy carrying and unrolling to cut to size and tack down. Rubber is usually made of high-quality aviation and medical grade rubber material. It is stable, soft, waterproof, high-temperature resistant, corrosion resistant, and easy to cut. It is the priciest of the flexible molding types, about $5 per linear foot. Polyurethane is an extruded foam material that is inexpensive and much lighter than wood. It holds up to changing temperatures and moist environments but can be damaged easily. It is inexpensive, about $1.50 per linear foot. PVC (polyvinyl chloride) is a strong, rigid material that mimics wood’s look while providing moisture protection. It won’t crack or chip but can get brittle in cold temperatures. It is the least expensive of the flexible molding types, costing about $1 per linear foot. Pre-Finish the Trim (Optional): Paint quarter-round or shoe trim before or after installation. Most carpenters finish long trim pieces before measuring, cutting, and installing them by painting or applying stain and varnish. Painting before tacking down is easier than after nailing down. Some touch-up work is needed after installation and can be done with a brush. A downside of pre-finishing is nail holes that need filling. When using wooden molding, sand it lightly for a clean and smooth finish. Use a tack cloth to remove sawdust. Apply paint or stain as desired.If staining, make sure to choose a stain-grade hardwood base-shoe or quarter-round molding, preferably the same species of wood as your baseboards or floors. Pine or other softwoods are suitable for painting but do not take stains very well. When handling small molding, wiping on a stain with a rag is the easiest method. Once the stain has dried, apply a top-coat varnish, following the manufacturer’s directions. Let the finish dry completely before proceeding to installation.
What You’ll Need: Equipment / Tools: Tack cloth (optional), Tape measure, Pencil, Power miter saw or handsaw and miter box, Brad nailer, Hammer, Nail set. Materials: Quarter-round or shoe molding, Finish nails or brads, Paint, or stain and varnish (optional), Sandpaper (optional), Wood glue, Painter’s tape, Wood putty (optional). Instructions for Installing Quarter-Round or Shoe-Molding Trim: You can join shorter pieces to cover a long wall using scarf joints, but most carpenters try to avoid this by using full-length pieces for a smoother look. The following installation steps feature inside and outside miters to join pieces of moldings at the corners. Cut the ends of the moldings at 45 degrees to make the 90-degree corners. This tutorial also demonstrates how to cut and install a return, a small piece that finishes off an exposed end of the trim. Measure and Mark the First Trim Piece: Instead of measuring, marking, and cutting all pieces before nailing, it will be easier to avoid mistakes by measuring, cutting, and installing the trim one piece at a time. If you are beginning with a piece that will fit an outside corner, such as around a post or wall arch, position the molding across the wall and mark the ends with a pencil at the wall intersection. If you are installing base shoe molding, make sure that the long edge of the molding is upright against the wall. Make a light angle mark to show the general direction the miter cut will make—it does not need to be precise. The purpose of the mark is simply a reminder to yourself of the general direction of the 45-degree cut. If you are beginning with a piece of molding that will fit inside corners, measure the entire length of the wall and mark a long piece of molding to these dimensions. Tip: It’s OK to cut pieces a little bit long if you’re using a power miter saw, which can cleanly shave off a tiny amount of wood. If you’re using a handsaw and miter box, getting the length right on the first cut is best because fine adjustments are difficult. Miter-Cut the First Molding Piece: Set the handsaw or miter saw blade to 45 degrees. Position the trim piece on the miter box or saw base so the blade touches the pencil mark. Ensure the blade is to the outside edge of the pencil mark, preserving the mark. It is easy to cut too short if you cut through the mark itself. Make the first cut. Reverse the saw to 45 degrees in the opposite direction, then cut the other end of the trim at an opposite 45-degree angle. Test-Fit the First Piece: Position the first cut piece of trim in its wall position and check its length.When installing molding, precision and attention to detail are key. If a piece of molding is slightly too long, you can make it fit by taking a thin kerf-cut slice off one end. Ensure the first piece remains movable until the second piece is cut.
Measure and mark the second piece of trim carefully before cutting. Ensure the angle is correct so that it meets the miter angle of the first piece perfectly. Test-fit the second piece on the floor to check its length and fit with the first piece. Skilled carpenters adjust the miter angles to fit precisely when corners are slightly out of square. For instance, if an outside corner is 94 degrees, trim miters at 47 degrees will create a perfect fit. Use waste trim to experiment with different angles for a perfect fit.
Secure the first two pieces of trim by nailing them into place. Use a brad nailer or hand-nailing with a hammer and nail set. When using a brad nailer, calibrate the depth using waste trim on another waste board. Once calibrated, drive the finish nails or brads about every 18 inches, holding the nailer close to horizontal but slightly downward. If hand-nailing, drive each nail almost flush with the wood surface, then tap it just below the surface with a set and hammer. Continue this process around the room, one piece at a time.
To finish the ends of molding, create a return piece. A return is a small piece of molding that neatly finishes off the end of a piece of quarter-round or shoe molding. It’s optional but provides a professional look by hiding the exposed end grain. To create a return, mark the cut point on the bottom of the molding, not the top, and cut it to a 45-degree angle. Position and glue it into place.
For the return piece, measure and mark it to fit into the angle at the end of the first piece. Position a second short piece of mitered trim against the wall, matching the miter on the preceding piece. Cut the return piece at a 90-degree angle across its end and test-fit it to ensure a proper fit. This step, though challenging, especially with a power saw, can be done using a manual miter box and saw for better control.
Cutting a new return piece is the first step in the installation process.
Gluing the Return Piece: Nailing a return piece is not recommended as it can cause the wood to split. Instead, apply a small amount of wood glue to the mitered edge where it meets the first piece. Avoid gluing the wall or floor side of the return piece. Press the return piece into place, ensuring the mitered edges align, and let it sit undisturbed until the glue dries. Use painter’s tape to hold the pieces in place while the glue cures. Finishing the Installation: Even with a finishing nail gun or brad nailer set to the correct depth, nail heads may occasionally protrude from the trim. Instead of using a hammer to pound the nail heads, which can damage the trim, use a nail set and gently tap the nail heads until they are just below the trim’s surface. Remove the painter’s tape from the glued return pieces. Touch up the paint or finish on the trim if necessary. For small gaps between molding pieces where corners are slightly out of square, use matching wood putty to fill them. For painted trim, use caulk to fill these gaps.