Let’s explore the Banksia Blouse Version 1, the woven tee. This is the most basic version of the Banksia blouse, featuring no placket and no collar, yet it can be incredibly beautiful. In this guide, I’ll walk you through finishing the neckline for this look and include a bonus section on how to add a collar to this version (collar, but no placket).
We’ll start by preparing the bias-facing. A bias-facing pattern piece is included with your pattern, but you can also use store-bought bias tape if preferred. Fold your bias facing in half lengthwise and press. Fold one end in by 1/4″ and press. Starting with the folded-in end, pin the bias facing to your neckline edge, aligning the raw edges. When you come full circle and reach the folded end, overlap by 1″ and trim any excess. Sew 1/4″ from the raw edge. Trim your seam allowance. You can use pinking shears to trim and notch simultaneously. Press the seam allowance towards the bias facing and understitch. Understitching involves sewing the seam allowance to the facing close to the seam to prevent it from rolling towards the front. Turn the facing to the inside, press, and pin. Topstitch close to the edge and press well. That’s it for the basic neckline finishing. Now, let’s discuss a quick bonus: adding a collar to the woven tee. Leaving off the placket results in a 1 1/4″ gap at the front where the placket would be. If this doesn’t bother you, no changes are needed to the collar pattern. However, if you want the collar to meet in the middle, you’ll need to alter the collar pattern to be 1 1/4″ larger. To do this, slash the collar pattern and extend it. It’s important to extend it correctly; adding extra paper at the centre back might distort the collar’s fall. Instead, split the 1 1/4″ in half and add 5/8″ to each side near the front. Draw slash lines about 2 1/2″ from the edge. Cut along those slash lines. Add paper underneath and tape it in place to create a 5/8″ gap. Blend the collar lines together, cut, and repeat on the other side. Cut out your collar fabric pieces and prepare as usual. Pin to your blouse neckline, ensuring the ends meet in the middle. Sew and finish with the bias-facing application as described earlier. Tada! You now have different looks for the Banksia top without the placket. LOOKING FOR MORE BANKSIA POSTS? Preparation Sewing: Darts & Seams Sewing: Basting & Placket prep Sewing: Collars Sewing: Collarless version Sewing: How to sew a placket Sewing: How to sew a placket the easier way Sewing: How to sew a faux placket Sewing: Neckline Binding for Version 1 Sewing: Flat sleeve insertion Sewing: Sleeveless version Sewing: Long-sleeved version Sewing: Hemming Sewing: Dress versionSewing: Jersey version
Some other tutorials you might like to check out: – Pattern Alterations: How to turn the pattern into a dress – Pattern Alterations: Altering bust dart height – Pattern Alterations: Bust adjustments (FBA and SBA) – Pattern Alterations: Lengthen the sleeves – Pattern Alterations: Drafting different collars – Pattern Alterations: Alter the pattern for stretch fabrics DON’T HAVE THE PATTERN YET? Order Banksia today in Sizes XS-XL