I’m so excited to let you all know that the Darling Ranges sewing pattern is now available as an instant download PDF! Not only that, but I’ve spent a lot of time over the last year updating the pattern to include a new variation! I’ve been dying to tell you, how to sew a dartless version!
You girls know how much I love pattern variations, and as I kept making the Darling Ranges over the years, I kept thinking how much I’d love to wear it as a blouse. The pattern as it stood didn’t really work very well for a blouse, and once I get an idea in my head it’s really really impossible to make it go away. Since I was planning on releasing the pattern as a PDF, I decided to take that opportunity to add the variations I wanted and make a few little changes! I’m really excited 🙂 I love this pattern, and I love that it’s even more versatile now – yay! You can still create all the variations I’ve shared on Design Diary before (full list of variations and tutorials I’ve shared here), but now you can also create dartless versions, a dartless blouse and dartless tunic or dress. Completely awesome right? If you bought the original paper pattern with a side dart in the past – never fear! It’s straightforward to alter the pattern to create the same variations (or you can email us at hello@megannielsen.com and we’ll send you an updated PDF version of the pattern!). I’ll go over the alterations quick, and also go over some of the sewing instructions for the new versions. ALTERING THE ORIGINAL PATTERN The main change to the new dartless version is actually to the bust dart – the bust dart position has been moved from the side to the waist. As much as I loved the side darts, a waist dart allows for more variations in the pattern, is easier to alter, and is flattering on a wider range of people. If you have the original pattern making this change is super easy – just follow this tutorial: How to transfer bust dart location. Then (once the dart is at the waistline) if you want to create the dartless tunic or blouse from the original pattern, all you need to do is extend the pattern pieces at the centre front and side seam, like below. Voila! I recommend extending by 10″/25.4cm for a blouse, 15″/38.1cm for a tunic and 23″/58.4cm for a dress. So easy right? The sewing instructions are actually pretty much the same for all versions. The neckline, placket, sleeves, etc are all constructed the same way. But I thought I’d go over a few things… VIEW C : DARTLESS DRESS Version 3 is a loose, dartless dress with pockets. So you can skip the darts and gathers, and start with sewing the pockets and side seams. It’s technically the same exact technique as we went over with V1, but I’ll go over it again here… Start by finishing the raw edges of all four of your pocket pieces. You can use a serger/overlock, zig zag stitch, pinking shears, or binding. Next, we lay our pockets on our skirt pieces. One of the problems I first had when I started learning about pockets was that I kept having alignment issues.A common sewing challenge is misaligned pocket placement, where one piece is too high and the other too low, or accidentally sewing them to the wrong side. Here is an easy method to avoid this:
Lay out all skirt pieces with right sides facing upwards and side seams aligned. This allows you to verify correct placement. Position the pockets on the side seams with their right sides facing downwards, ensuring they match each other and the top edge aligns with the pattern notches. Pin and sew in place 1/2 inch from the raw edge. Neaten the raw edge of the side seam. Press the pockets open so the right sides face outwards, then understitch. Next, lay the back dress piece with right sides facing upwards and pockets sticking out. Place the front dress pieces on top with right sides facing downwards. Match the side seams and pockets, pin, and sew down the side seams until reaching the pocket. Sew 5/8 inch beyond the pocket edge, around the pocket curve, and back down the side seams. The following step is unique to View C and optional, but it adds a stylish detail. Press the pockets towards the front pieces and pin them in place. Topstitch around the pocket edge so the stitching is visible from the outside. From there, continue with shoulder seams, placket, and sleeves as described for View A. For sleeves in View B and C, which are looser and non-elastic, simply turn up 1/2 inch, then another 1/2 inch, pin, and sew close to the edge. The hemline is finished similarly. VIEW B: DARTLESS BLOUSE Version 2 blouse is extremely simple with no darts, pockets, or ties. Simply sew the side seams and shoulder seams, and finish the raw edges. Then, proceed with the placket and sleeves (or sleeveless) like other versions. The hem for V2 and V3 involves turning up 1/2 inch, then another 1/2 inch, pinning, and sewing close to the edge, differing from V1’s larger turn-up. LOOKING FOR MORE TUTORIALS? Here is the full list of Darling Range tutorials: – Project preparation – Pattern alterations: full bust adjustment – Pattern alterations: small bust adjustment – Pattern alterations: lengthen the bodice – Pattern alterations: raise the neckline – Pattern alterations: rounded neckline – Pattern alterations: fishtail hem – Pattern alterations: add darts to the back bodice pattern piece – Sewing & construction: Bodice & darts – Sewing & construction: Skirt & pockets – Sewing & construction: Attaching the skirt & bodiceSewing & Construction Steps:
– Placket & Neckline – Sleeveless version – Attaching the sleeves – Hemming – Ties & beltloops – Closures – Sleeveless variation – Dartless Versions (B & C) We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations