The older version of the Darling Ranges pattern featured a larger bust dart, which could sometimes create a pointy bust shape. The newer version has a smaller dart positioned at the waist, but you might still experience some pointiness. This is a common issue with bust darts, especially if you are doing a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) and creating a larger dart again. Fortunately, there are several methods for dart manipulation to address this.
Please note that not all methods may work for everyone. It’s recommended to test any pattern alteration on a mock-up before applying it to your final garment. CURVING YOUR DART LEGS If you want to avoid extensive dart manipulation, curving the dart legs is a quick and easy solution. Simply redraw your dart legs using a French curve or another curved tool. Ensure the curve is gentle, not extreme. The curved legs reduce intake near the bust point, creating a more natural shape. TRANSFER DART TO SIDE SEAM While the waist is often the best place for a bust dart, some prefer a side dart, as in the older Darling Ranges pattern. The dart size remains the same, but placement can make a difference. 1. The bust apex point on the Darling Ranges pattern is about 3cm (1 1/8”) from the dart point. From the center line of your dart, mark 1 1/8” away from the dart point along the center dart line – this is your apex and pivot point. Redraw your dart legs. For this method, you will keep the dart intact instead of cutting it out. 2. Draw a slash line to the side seam. This will be your new dart position. 3. Cut up to, but not through, the pivot point. 4. Close your side dart by folding it – bring one leg over the other. This keeps the side dart intact and allows easy reversion if needed. 5. With paper underneath, reposition your dart point 1 1/8” (3cm) below the apex, and redraw your dart legs. Tape in place, true your dart, and blend your lines. CREATE TWO DARTS Another option is to split one large dart into two smaller darts – one at the waist and one at the side seam. This follows a similar concept but doesn’t move the entire dart. 1. Start by marking your apex 1 1/8” away from the dart point and redraw the legs. 2. Draw a slash line to the side and cut to (carefully, not through) the apex. This time, you will need to cut out the waist dart.To create two evenly spaced darts, pivot your pattern until you achieve the desired placement. Position paper underneath and secure it with tape. Then, redraw the dart points 1 1/8” (3cm) away from the apex, redraw the dart legs, true the darts, and blend the lines. This results in two well-defined darts.
CREATE DART CLUSTERS, OR MULTIPLE SMALLER DARTS Another option is to create multiple smaller darts in the same area, such as two, three, or four. This technique not only enhances the bust shape but also adds a decorative design element. For example, to make three darts: First, move the apex up 1 1/8” (3cm) above the dart point and redraw the legs. Cut out and remove the dart. Mark 1/2″ down on each dart leg and draw perpendicular guidelines 1/2” out. Draw lines parallel to the dart leg and 1/2” away, extending to the waist, and connect them to the apex point to form small triangles as slash lines. Cut along these slash lines up to the apex, being careful not to cut through it. Place new paper underneath, spread to form three equal darts, and tape in place. Reposition the dart points: for the middle dart, mark 1 1/8″ down straight along the middle; for the side darts, mark 5/8” down from the perpendicular guideline. To true the darts, fold them toward the center front, redraw and smooth the uneven waistline, then cut along the waistline while folded. OTHER TIPS When applying dart transfers and manipulations, combine them with curved darts for maximum effectiveness. While sewing darts, avoid backstitching at the dart point; instead, leave long threads and tie a knot about 1/8” away from the point. LOOKING FOR MORE TUTORIALS? Here’s the full list of Darling Ranges tutorials: Project preparation, Pattern alterations: full bust adjustment, Pattern alterations: small bust adjustment, Pattern alterations: lengthen the bodice, Pattern alterations: raise the neckline, Pattern alterations: rounded neckline, Pattern alterations: fishtail hem, Pattern alterations: add darts to the back bodice pattern piece, Sewing & construction: Bodice & darts, Sewing & construction: Skirt & pockets, Sewing & construction: Attaching the skirt & bodice, Sewing & construction: Placket & Neckline, Sewing & construction: Sleeveless version, Sewing & construction: Attaching the sleeves, Sewing & construction: Hemming, Sewing & construction: Ties & beltloops, Sewing & construction: Closures, Sewing and Construction: Sleeveless variation, Sewing and Construction: Dartless Versions (View B & View C). We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with