I am thrilled to share this tutorial with you! I’ve received many requests for a guide on how to lengthen the Tania culottes to a midi length. My goal was to find methods that work well while preserving the original design’s special feature: the skirt-like appearance. I’ve prepared two distinct methods for you.
Method 1 is ideal for drapey culottes, similar to the original style. This method maintains a very similar shape but will require more fabric. Method 2 is designed for more structured, stiff, or narrower fabrics. This option results in culottes with less flow. A benefit of this method is that pattern pieces can often be placed on folded fabric for cutting. Ready for the details? Here are the step-by-step instructions for both methods. General First Step: Before making any changes, always trace your original pattern pieces to preserve them. Mark the seamline along the waist and draw slash lines down to the hemline. Method 1: For Drapey Culottes 1. Carefully cut along your slash lines from the hem to the seamline and from the waist to the seamline. Do not cut through the seamline; leave a tiny hinge of paper to pivot the pieces. 2. Decide on your desired ease at hip level. For a flowy look, I added a total of 8″ ease (2″ per pattern piece). 3. Measure horizontally at hip level and mark the point calculated as (Hip/4) + (Ease/4) + seam allowance. For my 40″ hip, this was 12 5/8″. 4. Overlap the pattern pieces at the side seam until they reach this marked point, then tape them together. 5. Extend the inseam and side seam down to your desired midi length and redraw the hemline curve. 6. Repeat for the back pattern piece. Sew your culottes following the original Tania pattern instructions. Method 2: For Structured Culottes 1. Carefully cut along your slash lines from the hem to the seamline and from the waist to the seamline. Do not cut through the seamline; leave a tiny hinge of paper to pivot the pieces. 2. Decide on your desired ease at hip level. For a straighter, less flowy fit, I used only 2″ of total ease (1/2″ per pattern piece). 3. Measure horizontally at hip level and mark the point calculated as (Hip/4) + (Ease/4) + seam allowance. For my 40″ hip, this was 11 1/8″. 4. Overlap the pattern pieces at the side seam until they reach this marked point, then tape them together. 5. Curve the seamline from the waist to the hip, then draw it straight down to the hemline. You can choose your hem width; mine were 22″ (front) and 24″ (back). 6. Repeat for the back pattern piece. Sew your culottes following the original Tania pattern instructions.Now repeat for the back pattern piece and sew your culottes according to the Tania culottes pattern instructions.
For this option I decided to use a nice wide hemline to maintain the structure of the linen. I hope this helps you make your own midi culottes!! If you haven’t already purchased the Tania culottes pattern, stay tuned! Due to the overwhelming response to this variation, I’m planning on including it in the next release of the Tania pattern. Tania MN2203